How am I supposed to feel about the Kotel? That topic seems
to be left out of the Jewish Day School curricula. We learn about these cold
stones and their rich history, starting from the days where they were
amalgamated into the great Temples leading to their destructions. We are told
to fast and mourn the loss of the original Temple once a year, and to pack some
extra skirts for the day we visit Jerusalem. We practice writing notes on
ripped notebook paper and praying in the wall’s direction. None of these
lessons, however, taught us how we must feel upon touching the smooth Jerusalem
stones that constitute the beloved Kotel, a wall that has successfully allowed
us to build walls of intolerance between our fellow Jews. How am I, a
progressive Jew who has made a home for herself in Diaspora Judaism, expected
to feel about the Western Wall?
Everyone else seems to have formed connections and
relationships with this seemingly lifeless wall. Through protest, song, and
liberation, Women of the Wall (WOW) express their love of the Kotel and their
hopes for change. As they wrap their tallitot around their shoulders and carry
the weight of the Torah—and the future for Jewish feminism in Israel—in their
arms, we undoubtedly recognize their feelings about this holy ground. We see
the Orthodox and right wing men, bowing fervently toward the wall as the sun
beats down ferociously onto their black suits and streimels. On the other side
of the partition, the tears and pleas from their wives and mothers echo
throughout the kotel plaza and moisten the centuries-old stones. Behind them,
with no shortage of Polaroid’s and distinctive red stringed “Kabbalah”
bracelets, stand clusters of American teen tours who also manage to formulate
an impromptu prayer or two to match words to their feelings of awe. Sure, the
experiences are all included in the ten-day package, but their overwhelming
feelings of excitement, confusion, and peace alike, are priceless. Even
Christians flock to the Kotel, their minds marveling at how their very feet can
trace the footsteps of their savior. Suddenly, at the sight of the Kotel,
devout Christians feel a genuine sense of connection to the holy land that no
bible study or church service can provide.
This one wall, despite its controversy, brings more people
to their knees than any other ancient artifact. This one wall that ignites
years of denominational battles and gender conflicts also humbles almost the
entire range of the Jewish spectrum. So where does that place me, a Jewish
American teen, influenced by the cries and passions that make up the Kotel’s
voices?
I tried to feel that great mind-consuming awe that everyone
else seemed to experience upon touching the Kotel stone. In fact, I tried to
feel anything other than the dry Jerusalem heat, but unfortunately walked away
feeling like the same white canvas with which I entered. That one wall, while
beautiful, did not feel particularly more awe-inspiring or life changing than
any other wall in Israel. Yet surrounding my blatant apathy, I heard the melodious
chants of Jewish feminists, the heartfelt wailing of observant mothers, the
mumbled prayers of Orthodox black-hatters, and the clicks of tourists’ cameras.
I watched as these eclectic sounds and perspectives crossed paths and formed
their own connections to history. I may in fact never understand the meaning
and depth of such a holy place, but it is those around me who remind me that
the Kotel is inexorably a place of feeling. For me, I will feel the Kotel
through the feelings of the voices that surround me, for it is their
unremitting passion that awakens this lifeless wall and humbles those who see
that magic.
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